![]() I ended up paying for Disk Drill and saving what I could. OnTrack EasyRecovery perplexingly found an inconsistent mix of photos, but whereas the other two pieces of software were able to find north of 4000 photos, OnTrack EasyRecovery only found hundreds and not the ones I was looking for. On the plus side, Recuva is much cheaper if you’re willing to wait. This could be as a result of the slower computer it was running on (my Mac is an i7 and the PC laptop is running a Celeron, which I believe is a processor made entirely of celery). Recuva seemed to find the same set of files, but it did take about an hour to scan. I’m not entirely sure why that’s the case, though it seemed that the larger shoots with more files would have the tail ends of each shoot still lingering on the card, possibly because those photos hadn’t been overwritten yet. Disk Drill was able to find a few dozen files from the Adventureland shoot on the card, but also thousands of photos from previous months dating all the way back to January. Once I realized my mistake, I stopped shooting. I’ll save you the trouble and tell you up front: Disk Drill was able to find the most files on my 64 GB Sandisk SD card in the least amount of time (about 25 minutes for a deep scan). Disk Drill offers a student discount, so that knocks off 20 percent if you are eligible.ĭisk Drill was easy to use and seemed to recover the most amount of photos with the least fuss. All three versions offer trials which let you see what’s recoverable, so you can check before you pay $89, $20, and $79 respectively. I tried three programs: Disk Drill, OnTrack EasyRecovery (the Home version), and Recuva, the latter two requiring that I drag out a cheap Toshiba laptop I had lying around since they are PC only. Depending on how you handled your card and whether you are dealing with physical damage, file corruption, or pilot error (like my case), your mileage may vary. ![]() If you simply Google, there’s little way of telling what’s legit and what’s junk, so this should help cut through the noise of recovery software that’s out there. Here was my experience with three pieces of recovery software that I tried to save my photos. Thankfully, modern recovery software has gotten better, and so while I wasn’t able to recover most of what I shot (more on why that was the case below), at least I got a feel for what worked and what didn’t. Now, that’s not even software that’s supported by SanDisk anymore. The last time I made this mistake was seven or eight years ago, when I lost the images of a guest speaker at my workplace in the same manner. Back then, I used the very clunky SanDisk RescuePro software to recover bits and pieces of images that lingered on the card, but not really enough to glean anything useful. I made two critical errors here, first formatting a shoot without copying it off the card, but the more pressing one, I’ve learned, is the act of continuing to shoot. I didn’t even notice my error and kept happily (foolishly) shooting throughout the day. A trip to the sprinkler park the next day meant a new shoot, and my muscle memory went straight to the card-formatting menu on my Olympus OM-D E-M10 Mark II. The kids were cranky, and I didn’t do the usual task of copying the card immediately to the computer. Microsoft Defender does not replace existing malware protection on iOS and Windows devices.We had come home late. ![]()
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
Details
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |